Recently I was able to spend a long weekend in Seville with two of my fab friends and we loved it so much that I thought I'd share our itinerary with you. From brunch and winding streets to attractions to visit, rooftop views and hidden tapas bars – here’s our full long-weekend adventure in Seville.
We hopped on the 9:35 am flight from Gatwick with Vueling on a Thursday morning and by 1:25 pm we touched down in the beautiful city of Seville, in 28 degree heat in October. Bliss! After checking in at our home for the weekend – the lovely three-bedroom, two-bathroom, modern, spacious and clean apartment at Magno Apartments Atienza (booked via Booking.com) – we were ready to dive into sunshine, tapas and cobbled streets.
Here’s how our long weekend panned out – full of fun and laughter.
Day 1 – Arrival, a wander & rooftop views
After settling into our apartment and freshening up a bit, we kicked off our Seville adventure with a chilled drink (cerveza!) in a cosy local bar: Café Bar Los Dardos. From the bar, we meandered through the lively Feria neighbourhood, which housed vintage shops, a covered market selling fresh fish, and narrow streets brimming with local café-bars full of life.
As evening approached, we headed to the very striking modern landmark that is Metropol Parasol (commonly called “Las Setas”) in the Plaza de la Encarnación. Designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer H. and opened in 2011, this huge wooden structure (some say the largest timber structure in the world) was built to revitalise the square and is now a must-see in my opinion.
We had booked tickets online for 6.45pm; they were 16 euros each and the entry cost allows one more re-entry within 48 hours and also gives free entry to the ceramics museum in Triana. There was only a short queue at the entrance but from what I've read it can be a bit hit and miss as to what times are busy - large queues can form so booking in advance is always recommended. After a short lift ride we wandered along the elevated walkway and were treated to magnificent views of Seville’s rooftops and skyline – a perfect “arrival in a new city” moment that helped us get our bearings from above. Sunset was due at 7.35pm but most of the spots for the best sunset photos on the railings at the peak were already taken by the time we reached the top (around ten past seven). However we still managed to capture some great pics from other slightly lower points so I don't think it's worth hanging around waiting for as long as those people must have.
Next stop was dinner: tapas and cocktails at Bar Favorito in the square nearby. The food and service were great, the atmosphere relaxed, and it set the tone for the whole weekend.
The Setas structure lights up at night, which makes a return visit later on in the evening well worth it. We enjoyed the experience of the light show that takes place on the structure, and there were fewer people at this time (around 10pm) so an enjoyable stroll. Inside the building we caught the short (15 mins) multi sensory film called "Feeling Seville" that showcases the city. An ultra-high-definition 12K video is projected onto a huge curved LED screen, creating a breathtaking panorama. It gave the impression of being right in the heart of Seville and prepared us for what was to come. I'd definitely recommend both a daytime and night-time visit to Las Setas.
Day 2 – Brunch, cathedrals & palace gardens
We started the morning with brunch at Mokambo – their menu covers everything from eggs and toast to pancakes and granola, and the portion sizes were huge.
I also had the cutest little tea mug with lid and timer to leave my teabag in for the recommended time, and the Seville orange juice was super tasty. We booked ahead for 10:30 am and as we were eating, the queue to be seated built up outside so I highly recommend booking.
By 12:20 pm we were walking into the awe-inspiring Seville Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla) via our timed entrance slot. A few facts to know: it’s the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The official site notes opening times and ticket info - access to the top of the bell-tower (the Giralda) is included in the combined ticket (currently 18 euros including an audio guide). Make sure you buy tickets direct via their site www.catedraldesevilla.es, try to avoid being redirected into third-party resellers (with very similar website names) charging double. There are 35 ramps rather than steps to get up the tower but it's worth the climb to see the giant bells and for the view.
You can look out every side of the tower to see how majestic all of Seville is, but taking photos can be trickier than expected due to the criss-cross railings. It can take anywhere between 1-2 hours to view all the different rooms and wings of the Cathedral, all of them very impressive.
Booking in advance is vital – we booked only a week ahead and found very few slots left. We discovered the cathedral was closed both Saturday and Sunday we were there, due to a local procession connected to a religious festival on 25th October, although we found difficult to find any details about this online afterwards. It's very busy inside the Cathedral but you are able to move about freely in a way that suits you.
After the cathedral we stopped for a quick drink at a rooftop bar in restaurant Doña Rufina (the view wasn’t spectacular, but fun to be outdoors all the same). This is situated on the busy Calle Mateos Gago where there are lots of places to eat and drink, great for people-watching but it was very crowded – you'd have to be lucky to get seated at a table I think!
From there we headed just five minutes on foot to the magnificent Royal Alcázar of Seville palace complex. It’s open every day (in October when we visited: 09:30–17:00) and includes several palace buildings plus some expansive gardens. Again, make sure to only book tickets from the official website (alcazarsevilla.org) and it's important to head to the queue in advance of your entry time - you'll be allowed in up to 30 minutes after that timeslot but if there are long queues you might not make it. Expect to spend roughly 1.5-2 hours (though you could spend more) to fully explore. We missed out on the ticket to view the “royal bedroom” because we hadn’t booked far enough ahead - so that’s a tip: book well in advance (two months or more) if you want the full experience, or to go in the mornings when it's said to be quieter (and less hot in summer months). We stopped mid-visit for a coffee and tasty cake in the garden café, a lovely quiet moment in a busy day!
Back to the apartment for a quick rest (we had racked up approximately 17,000 steps by then!) and some chill time, before heading out for cocktails at the rooftop bar in the Hotel Doña María. Sunset views across the cathedral – just gorgeous.
Dinner followed at Chicuelo Bodeguita & Tapas near the cathedral – more delicious tapas. After, while walking home, we stumbled into a hidden local bar gem called Bar Pecata Mundi, filled with Seville locals, late night banter, music and a great atmosphere.
Day 3 – Pastries, parks, river banks & flamenco
Morning brought a quick pit stop for tasty pastries at Colettes near the shopping district. After that we walked through the central Santa Cruz area but because of the big procession the streets were packed, and we had to take a detour down and around the narrow streets.
On our walk we passed an enormous old tree and then stopped for late lunch and radlers at Premier Garden Cocktail Bar, a beautiful setting with lots of outdoor seating in the park under lots of trees. They apparently have events and live music at different times and I think this would be a great setting to catch something like that. Oh and for those who might not know: a radler is essentially beer mixed with a lemonade or lemon-flavoured soft drink – light, refreshing and perfect for a recharge en route.
Next, we made our way to the stunning Plaza de España by the María Luisa Park – a sweeping semi-circular building with a canal (usually full of water but empty when we arrived, for cleaning and maintenance), bridges, tile-work alcoves representing Spanish provinces and plenty of photo spots. It was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 and remains one of Seville’s most iconic public spaces. We even caught a little impromptu flamenco display – pure Seville magic.
From there we strolled through the park, along the riverbank where most of the river trips depart from (there are a couple of cafe bars around that part of the river but none further up that we saw), past the Torre del Oro, crossed the historic Triana Bridge and wandered around the Mercado de Triana – a covered market with food options galore, lively atmosphere and public restrooms. We popped into Ale-Hop, one of my favourite Spanish chain shops, then crossed back over the bridge, where we were treated to some rocking live music outside of another market area.
Back to the apartment for another freshen-up, then out later for an evening of real flamenco at a proper theatre: the Teatro Flamenco Sevilla (again, worth booking ahead). The show was fabulous – the dancing brilliant, the music passionate (but being totally honest we thought some of the voices might best be described as wailing....).
After the show we meandered the narrow streets to find somewhere to eat in the busy central area, and ended up at Bar Augustin & Company – great service, delicious food (more tapas, and the Spanish omelette was the best I've ever tasted!) and wine, and all very reasonably priced. On our walk home we came across huge groups celebrating the festival and we stopped in at a place called Moss Bar for cocktails underneath Las Setas, with the lights as our backdrop.
Day 4 – Check-out, quiet cafés, riverside stroll & homeward bound
Today was our check-out day but we weren’t done yet. First mission: drop our luggage at lockers near the apartment – our apartment hosts had recommended a great option called Lock & Enjoy (reasonable prices, different locker sizes, easy app/QR access, several locations across the city – a good tip for your last-day wander).
Then we stumbled across a lovely little café in a square set away from the traffic noise: Restaurante La Jaula de Papel. The brunch menu was mouth-watering: various eggs options, pancakes, waffles, granola and even a full English breakfast. We ordered just before it closed at noon – and a note that when you’re a bit further from the centre in Seville it’s good to keep an eye on opening times. Many places close for siesta from about 3-5 pm.
After brunch we wandered back through the Feria area, and then all the way up to what felt like the “edge” of the city (though it wasn’t!) where we found the city walls and the beautiful Basílica de Santa María de la Esperanza Macarena. I lit a candle for my mum – a quiet reflective moment in the bustle of Seville. There are dozens of churches in Seville but I'm taking a wild guess that this is the one with the most impressive display!
From there we walked to the riverbank to view the Puente de la Barqueta bridge (close to the Isla Magica theme park which also gets good reviews, although we didn't quite make it as far as that), zig-zagged through winding narrow streets past hundreds of churches (I’m only slightly exaggerating!) and returned to collect our bags from the lockers. One last cerveza stop for relaxation, then off to the airport for our 17:15 flight. We took Uber both ways for the airport run in and out of the city; it was only about 30 minutes to/from the North of the city where our apartment was and only around 20 euros each ride (price depends on timing/traffic).
Final thoughts & tips
What a weekend. Seville served up a perfect mix of history, modern vibes, delicious food and slow-mo strolls with friends. Some key takeaways:
Booking ahead is non-negotiable for the big attractions like the Cathedral and the Alcázar. The slots fill up fast and you don’t want to miss out (we didn't get to see the royal bedroom at the Alcázar!).
Stay in a comfortable apartment with space (our Magno Apartments Atienza was ideal) – gives you a base to rest, refresh and recharge after big walking days.
Use lockers or a convenient solution on your check-out day if you’re planning one last wander.
Watch café and attraction opening/closing times – around siesta time some places shut; on festival days/streets there can be detours or closures (like our restricted cathedral slot issue).
Explore outside the main tourist drag – the vintage shops in Feria, Triana market, hidden bars like Bar Pecata Mundi – we found gems.
Rooftop views = gold. Whether it’s Las Setas at night, sunset at the hotel bar by the cathedral, or just a café terrace, they give a different perspective.
Take your time. With over 18,000 steps one day (thanks to our phones for the info!) you’ll want moments to stop, relax and soak in the city rather than just ticking boxes.
Embrace the food & drink. Big brunches, tapas dinners, radlers in the sun – so much of Seville is about this relaxed, social vibe.
Here's a link to my Google Maps list of all the places we visited on our short trip - and a few more that were recommended but we didn't quite have time for: Seville Mini-Break
So let me know, have you already visited Seville or are you now tempted to try a trip to this gorgeous Spanish city?
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